Friday, July 31, 2015

More on Meat Eating

There is an interesting editorial in the New York Times that was coincidentally published with perfect timing for our recent posts on eating meat, eating the meat we know and animal welfare. A Farm Boy Reflects, by Nicholas D. Kristof is a personal and moving reflection that is well worth the read. His follow-up blog continues the discussion with commentary.

As Mr. Kristof recognizes, Americans are becoming increasingly sensitive to the welfare of animals, whether they are pets, zoo animals, endangered species, or farm animals. Yet, the industrialization of animal agriculture relies on a system in which animals are treated with less individual sensitivity, and in some instances, cruelty. Indeed, the industrialization model is dependent upon the kind of mass production of uniform products that likens farm animals to the "widgets" produced in other manufacturing processes.

These trends are on a crash course.

A game of chicken? Or a step back to consider what we are doing and how we are doing it. Consider Matthew Scully's comments from his book Dominion.
The care of animals brings with it often complicated problems of economics, ecology, and science. . . . Animals are more than ever a test of our character, of mankind's capacity for empathy and for decent, honorable conduct and faithful stewardship. We are called to treat them with kindness, not because they have rights or power or some claim to equality, but in a sense because they don't; because they all stand unequal and powerless before us. . . . Whenever we humans enter their world, from our farms to the local animal shelter to the African savanna, we enter as lords of the earth bearing strange powers of terror and mercy alike.

Rice-a-Roni: Who Could Have Known?

The origin of recipes can be a fascinating case study. In case you missed it, on this morning's National Public Radio broadcast of Morning Edition, there was a delightful story about the origin of one of the first boxed food products available to the hurried cook, Rice-a-Roni. Now, for those of you who thumb your noses at such packaged and processed products, I urge you to read on. And, do listen to the story.

It turns out that it is based on the Armenian Pilaf recipe made by Mrs. Captanian, an Armenian immigrant with an amazing and tragic life story and adapted by a young Canadian-Italian family who lived with her. As NPR reports, this story is about "the convergence of a Canadian immigrant bride, an Italian-American pasta family, and a survivor of the Armenian genocide – all of which led to the creation of "The San Francisco Treat."

Once again, food serves to unite people and to form the basis for lasting memories. Take a minute to listen to the story. It is a delight. There is also a website to accompany the story, complete with photos, additional information, and yes, the Rice-a-Roni theme song.

Note: This story is part of the Kitchen Sisters Hidden Kitchens series. It is an award-winning series that explores "the world of street-corner cooking, below-the radar, unexpected,hidden kitchens, legendary meals and eating traditions -- how communities come together through food."

Thursday, July 30, 2015

Squatters Pub and Brewery - Beer in Utah?

Because we live in NYC, it's not often that we can find a bar/restaurant that's brightly-lit, clean, and features a large menu that lists both burgers and tempeh!

Squatters Pub and Brewery in Park City, Utah features regular meat-loving entrees alongside vegan and vegetarian dishes and its full roster of beers. It is also environmentally friendly with biodegradable take-out and condiment containers, paper straws, and using wind power.

The concept seems to have worked well - the restaurant was fairly busy with a mixed clientele of various ages (families, couples, and groups of friends).

Utah beers (yes, Utah serves beer!) from Squatters and Wasatch Brewery.

6 Beer Sampling ($4.49): Overall the beers are light (4% ABV) and some are a little sweet like the wheat beer, but that's the style here.

Classic American Burger ($7.99): Made with Niman Ranch (renowned natural meats that are hormone & antibiotic free, humanely raised, and sustainable farming & ranching practices) 100% ground chuck, lettuce, onion, and tomato. It was juicy and perfectly cooked.

Black and Tan ($3.79 for a 1/3 liter): A mix of Squatter's Evolution Amber and Captain Bastard's Oatmeal Stout.

Captain Bastard's Oatmeal Stout ($4.79 for 1/2 liter): On it's own, it's a little light for a stout, but still drinkable at 4% ABV.

Stout BBQ Buffalo Burger ($11.99): a half pound free-range King Canyon buffalo burger, cheddar, Captain Bastard's Oatmeal Stout BBQ Sauce topped with crisp onion straws. Buffalo can be a tough meat, but this burger was nice and tender.

Chef's Veggie Burger ($8.99): A grilled patty made with roasted veggies, garbanzo beans, rice and oats, topped with avocado and hummus. It was hearty and fresh.

Garlic Fries: Crispy and full of garlic flavor without being too greasy.

Squatters Pub and Brewery is located at 1900 Park Ave in Park City, UT.

Kudla

Here's a bit of trivia to start with - Did you know Kudla means 'Mangalore' in the Tulu language? And did you know that Tulu does not have a written script? Sound exotic? Well, so is the splendid food at this seafood haven on Raja Ram Mohan Roy Road in west Bangalore.

Kudla was not too packed when we showed up on a late Sunday evening after watching a game of cricket at Chinnaswami stadium. As we stepped in, it was hard to miss the live king crabs on display by the entrance. The interiors are simple and casual. We grabbed a table near the window and quickly set out to sample the seafood starters. The ladyfish, silverfish and mussels were excellent. The vegetarian samplings were a bit disappointing - so if you have a veggie friend, you might want to consider an earlier supper stop. Beer was available, but wasnt cold enough. After eyeing the crabs for little longer, we picked the largest one to be cooked kudla style in a curry. It took about 20 minutes, but was well worth the wait. Easily the best crab I've had outside of the Konkan coast, this dinner left us smacking our fingers at the end.

Cost: Rs 250-300 per meal
Cleanliness: Average
Quality: Good
Service: Average
Ambience: Good
Bottomline: Great crabs up for grabs

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Chimayo - Elk in Park City, UT


While we were planning this vacation in Park City, UT, we asked around for dinner recommendations. We decided to check out Chimayo because of everyone's rave reviews about this Southwestern restaurant.

Even during the slower summer months, Chimayo was one of the more popular spots. The decor is rustic and the atmosphere was festive and casual.





We loved the dressing (like a very light, not spicy, mayonnaise made with cilantro, jalapeno, garlic, olive oil) with the bread.

Ceviche de la Casa ($16): shrimp, scallops and fish marinated in lemon and lime juice
tossed with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, shallots, sweet onions, serrano chiles and seasoned with cilantro. It was a beautiful presentation (we like the cheesy crisp). It tasted like a strong Bloody Mary or Clamato with fresh seafood and a tangy bite (from the cilantro, garlic, and lime). The dish was good, but maybe on the pricey side.

London Broil of Elk ($40): Seasoned with toasted black peppercorns and sesame seeds. Accompanied with a potato and cheddar quesadilla (with fresh tomato salsa) and asparagus. The elk was finished with a green chili béarnaise. This was the highlight of our meal! The meat was tender and flavorful. The bearnaise sauce was good - not too heavy and a little sweet. The asparagus was crisp and perfectly cooked. We loved the tomato salsa because it added a freshness to the dish.

Grilled Buffalo Flank Steak ($40): Topped with wild mushrooms and served with corn-poblano potato gratin. The buffalo was finished with a red chili sauce. This was an earthy and hearty dish. The gratin was good (a little too cheesy). The (large) steak was perfectly prepared and the mushrooms were delicious!

Chimayo is located at 368 Main St in Park City, UT.

Thoughts on Bunny

Professor Chen raises some intriging issues in his post, Bunny: It's Whats for Dinner. First, there is the impact of knowing what, and sometimes, who you are eating. The second issue, not to be overlooked but which I shall save for a later comment, is the serious issue of animal welfare and humane slaughter.

Except for the hunter who with honesty of purpose kills and eats his or her game, it seems that most people would rather distance themselves from any real understanding of the fact that the meat they are consuming was in fact the flesh of a living being. And, who can blame them? Scientific research continues to produce discoveries that animals have more cognition, more understanding, and more emotion that we ever thought possible. The closer they seem to us (and we to them), the more uncomfortable it seems to eat them.

When I grew up in rural Washington County, Minnesota many of my peers participated in 4-H projects in which they raised a young farm animal from birth, training it, bathing it, grooming it and completely befriending it, after which they "showed it" at the county fair and then watched it (most often through many tears) sold at auction for meat. I wanted no part of that desensitizing experience. After bottle feeding and raising "Tiger," an orphan lamb as a child, the thought of eating "leg of lamb" seems closer to a Hannibal Lecter line than a delicacy. Leg of lamb?? Think about it. At least they could call it something else . . . even hamburger is not called ground cow.

But, what has happened to the 4-H projects I recall? This summer, my local paper reported "Washington County Fair Shows Moving Toward Pets And Away From Farm Animals." There are many factors at work - PETA calls it "progressive" and the University of Minnesota describes it as a way "to reach out to nonfarm kids." Either way, participation is up, with horses and dogs taking the lead. How have the kids reacted?
Raising animals to kill? Eeewwww.

"I am not a vegetarian or anything," said Kelsey Binder, 18, of Afton, who will be entering horses and a dog into obedience and agility contests. "But I don't think I could eat my own animal."

Instead, she said, her livestock-raising friends swap the meat of their animals with other friends, to avoid eating the animal they raised. She said one girl raises ducks for the fair — they are killed and eaten by her father only when she leaves town.
What to make of all this? Since we now eat meat because we enjoy it rather than because we need it, clearly people can chose what meat to eat and even whether to eat meat at all. How Americans make that choice in the future may produce some interesting results.

HLFD in MN: Brasa Premium Rotisserie Restaurant

It wasn't just cheesy goodness we found when we were in Minneapolis.   After asking my friends on Twitter where to go, a couple people suggested Brasa, a great casual rotisserie restaurant.  Melt in your mouth braised beef that's also locally sourced? Organic ingredients in Creole cooking?  We honestly didn't think we would find all of this in MN, but we were pleasantly surprised.
There were other surprises in MN, including this bar on the go.  According to Pedal Pub's website, you can rent this vehicle (seats 16) and provide the food, beverages (including alcohol), and leg power.  Can't find this at home!
But it was rotisserie chicken we had in mind.  We made it to Brasa just as it opened.  There's a good-sized patio space, but we opted to dine inside right by the large opened glass garage doors.
My hubby's faves:  hot sauces and cold beer!
Brasa was opened in 2007 by Alexander Roberts, the 2010 James Beard Award-winner for Best Chef - Midwest Chef.  He has worked in some of our favorite NYC restaurants (Gramercy Tavern, Bouley, and Union Square Cafe).  With Brasa, he created a rotisserie restaurant that serves organic, sustainably produced food.
We decided to share a plate of 3 meats and 2 sides ($17.25).  We both loved the juicy Braised Beef that was lightly smoked and braised with sweet-spicy sauce.  It was our overall favorite as it just melted in our mouths!  Their signature Rotisserie Chicken was well seasoned.  We liked the Creole-style dry rub used to roast the chicken.  My hubby liked the Heritage Berkshire Pork Shoulder.  It was slow roasted with citrus, garlic, and pepper.
And their sides were also amazing.  We had the Creamed Spinach and Jalapeno which wasn't that spicy but flavorful.  We liked how it wasn't as overly creamy as other creamed spinach sides we've had at steakhouses.  This side definitely had more greens than cream.  Our favorite side was the Collards with Smoked Turkey.  Though we preferred the unforgettable collard greens at Hattie's, this dish was also fantastic.  With bits of smoked turkey, these collards aren't mushy and have an easy, slightly bitter taste.  Our lunch was the best meal we've ever had in a converted gas station!  

Brasa Restaurant is located at 600 East Hennepin Avenue in Minneapolis, MN.  (There's a second location in St. Paul's, MN)

Brasa Rotisserie on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Cow's - Park City, Utah

We were surprised to find Cows ice-cream shop here in Park City, UT. We recognized this Prince Edward Island-based from our childhood trips to Niagara-on-the-Lake in Ontario. It's a fun store with all kinds of cow-themed merchandise available for sale.
Tons of ever-changing flavors.

House-made waffle cones that come with your ice-cream purchase.

We got the java chip and the Baileys Chip ($4.75). Both were creamy and crunchy (from the chocolate chips). We love the eggy and fresh taste of the cone.

Cows is located at 402 Main St. in Park City, Utah. It's a fun, kid-friendly, nostalgic spot. Connected to the ice-cream shop is Cows' coffee shop with adult food (e.g. sandwiches) and free WiFi.

Farro Salad

Going through our pantry, I found the bag of farro sent to us from Juls from Juls' Kitchen (through the Foodie Exchange).  Farro is a deliciously nutty Italian grain that looks like a fatter brown rice or spelt.  It's an ancient grain that originated all others including rice, barley, and wheat.  Though it's also used in soups or cooked with bacon, we opted to make an easy and healthy farro salad instead.

Farro is high in fiber, protein, and B-vitamins.  It almost became extinct because this grain was so difficult to produce.  But when it became popular amongst haute cuisine restaurants in Italy, farro thankfully made a comeback.  This dish is a great summer salad - just remember to soak the farro the night before you want to serve it.
Farro Salad (adapted from Giada De Laurentiis' recipe, serves 6)
Ingredients:
4 cups water
2 cups farro (We used more than the original recipe)
2 tsp salt, plus more to taste
1 pound tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups sliced mushrooms (not in the original recipe.  We had Baby Bella or crimini mushrooms on hand so we added them to the salad.  It added a nice earthiness to the dish)
(The original recipe also called for 1/2 sweet onion chopped but we didn't have any on hand)
Directions:
 1. (additional step to the original recipe) Clean the farro and soak the grain overnight. 
2. Combine the water and farro in a medium saucepan. Add 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the farro is tender, about 30 minutes. Drain well, and then transfer to a large bowl to cool.
3. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, chives, and parsley to the farro, and toss to combine.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the garlic, vinegar, salt, pepper, and olive oil. Add the vinaigrette to the salad and toss to coat.
We immediately ate the salad for dinner, but it can also be refrigerated overnight (just bring it to room temperature before serving - perfect for a dinner party!).  It's a wonderfully hearty dish that we'll definitely make again.

Main Street Pizza & Noodle - Park City, Utah


After a 5-hour plane ride, and driving up from Salt Lake City into higher altitudes, we were tired and famished. We drove into Park City and headed straight to Main St - the "downtown" area with cute (albeit touristy) shops and restaurants.
Hot and Spicy Southwest Burrito Pizza ($21.99, 16" large):
This pizza is topped with jalapeno peppers, red onions, mozzarella and cheddar cheese, cilantro, and fire-roasted chilies. It comes with a side of salsa, sour cream, and guacamole.

The pizza was good, but pricey. It was spicy from the peppers and fresh from the onions and cilantro. The chicken was a little dry. It had all the components of a burrito, but was not as heavy.

Main Street Pizza & Noodle is located at 530 Main St in Park City, UT.

Monday, July 27, 2015

The Political Face of American Agriculture

I've been wondering a great deal lately about the political goodwill currently associated with American agriculture, particularly the mid-west's livestock and grain production sectors. Honestly, I think the promotion of biofuels did more to alienate today's crop production methods than the upsurge in GMOs from the last two decades. Agriculture is now trying to play the game as an energy provider (i.e., an oil company) and I just don't think that carries with it the same political face as agriculture as food provider.

Moreover, there is no small degree of internal strife associated with biofuels policy. With high grain prices (though perhaps those are subsiding), the livestock sectors' willingness to align with other sectors' interests is waning.

Of course, agriculture as food provider has suffered on its own terms. Meat production, animal welfare, corn syrup, food-borne illness, and that enigmatic "industrialization of agriculture" are firmly planted as objections in the minds of the vast urban electorate that agriculture had better take note of.

And it is. One such effort that you may have seen signs of in your local media is the effort at marketing producers as family-run operations that involve real people. Many think that Jeffersonian recollections are still handy to agricultural interests, at least when it comes to marketing ag against its "black hat" reputation. [When it comes to structural and economic regulation, it would seem that such concerns are often treated as counter-productive. But when it comes to saving poltical face, they sure come in handy.]

Another related effort is the local-food movement. Buying local is, again, and in part, an effort at connecting producers to consumers. And it has the potential to help producers' political case by putting consumers (i.e., voters) on their side.

I wonder, however, if agriculture can't do more. The growing urban agriculture movement has spawned a variety of different ag production efforts within urban landscapes: vegetables, fruits, poultry, meat, etc. In my mind, agriculture would do well to think of urban producers as farmers, encouraging their production and their connection to the natural resources that sustain their efforts. In other words, if these groups can find common ground, then perhaps producers would help their political standing. If they could, the connection wouldn't have to rely on a vision of farming and rural areas that is, if not untrue, quickly fading in the minds of an electorate that is becoming close to three generations removed from the farm.

There are, of course, impediments. The potential for the efforts to fulfill the food and fiber needs of those currently served by American agriculture is unclear to me. And the related factor--whether these producers are really in competition with more traditional producers--is also unclear. However, even if these producers pose somewhat of a competitive threat to more traditional producers, I wonder if the political benefits might outweigh that prospect. And, in any event, it would be hard for agriculture to reject the prospect on that premise, at least overtly.

The more important impediment is the nature of the upsurge in this growingly powerful group of producers. Indeed, I think one can argue that the existence of this home-grown food movement is due, in part, to its rejection of typical production. If that is true, how could the two groups ever see eye to eye? Or, perhaps more specifically, how could typical agriculture align itself with producers whose very existence is a result of rejecting it. I could simply say that stranger things have happened, but that wouldn't be much help. Rather, I wonder if the ag sector's current efforts at identifying producers as people isn't part of the answer. Rejecting industrialized agriculture is easy if one envisions it as a faceless beast. But if ag is successful at telling the stories of people within the industray, it becomes much more difficult. On the ground, the majority of producers within our industrialized ag system are not easy to hate. If ag can paint itself as families trying to produce a good that will feed others; running businesses that will support their local, state and national economies; and trying to do what they can to protect the resources they make their livings from; then I think the ability to identify with the urban producer is viable. Note, however, that this is much different than drawing upon some sort of urban favoritism for an ill-defined family farm. Rather, it is a "we have more in common than you may think" move that could pay substantial dividends without the mythology.

This may, of course, be pure blather. But I think the potential is there. That doesn't mean that I think it should happen. Those who would resist this commingling of producers would do well to focus on production methods and reject the common traits of producers as irrelevant. Those who would champion it should do the opposite. Those who view production as production, regardless of the type, might want to consider what producers can learn from one another. In any event, perhaps the ag-urban interface is changing.

Summer Vegetable Gratin Inspired by Thomas Keller

Summer vegetables from the Farmers Markets made last night's Meatless Monday dish so fresh and flavorful.  I wanted to make a dish with ingredients I had on hand, so I leafed through our growing cookbook collection.  I decided on the Summer Vegetable Gratin recipe by Thomas Keller in his Ad Hoc at Home cookbook (the one my hubby got signed when he met him in NYC).

It's an easy recipe that just takes a bit of time to prep (slicing and marinating the vegetables) and then bake in the oven.  I modified it with what I had available, but I believe you can have fun and use the basic idea/technique with the summer vegetables you have on hand.

After preheating the oven to 350F, I washed and prepped all of my farmer market goods:  tomatoes, zucchini, yellow squash, and large onion (I did not have the plum tomatoes nor Japanese eggplant the recipe had included).  I diced the onion and cooked it in a frying pan with canola oil, minced garlic, and French thyme until it was translucent.  I sliced the other vegetables and marinated them in extra virgin olive oil and salt (I've been using the lovely garlic salt from my Portugal foodie exchange.)
In my small Le Creuset cast iron baking dish (8x12 inches), I scattered the onions on the bottom.  Then I layered the vegetables.  On top of the vegetables, I grated Parmesan cheese, sprinkled Panko bread crumbs (Keller's recipe calls for his homemade bread crumbs), and French thyme.  I repeated with more vegetables and then Panko/cheese mix.  After the last layer of vegetables, I sprinkled more Parmesan cheese on top.  I ended up baking my dish for about 45 mins (Keller's recipe calls for a much longer time) which was enough time for the vegetables to soften enough to be cut through.
This bright and colorful gratin works as a tasty side dish.  My hubby enjoyed the seasoning and especially the diced onions on the bottom (He was sopping that up with crusty bread).  The best part?  The dish tastes even better the next day as leftovers! 

CAFO Implementation Guidance under the CWA

— Nick Welding, UNL Law '11

The recent release of the EPA’s “Implementation Guidance on CAFO Regulations”is likely to add to the conflict between the EPA, environmental groups, and CAFO owners/operators regarding proper implementation of the Clean Water Act (CWA). The guidance, released on May 28th, is the product of a settlement agreement between the EPA and Natural Resources Defense Council, Sierra Club, and Waterkeeper Alliance. According to the settlement, the guidance is to assist permitting authorities with implementation of the NPDES permit regulations and Effluent Limitations Guidelines and Standards for CAFOs. The released guidance identifies certain factors and circumstances that the EPA believes will lead to a “discharge into waters of the United States,” which, in turn, will trigger the NPDES permit requirement. However, none of the standards or levels provided by the guidance are dispositive. Overall, the guidance seems to further obscure the already muddy waters surrounding exactly when a CAFO must obtain a NPDES permit and whether the EPA has authority to regulate CAFO’s under the Clean Water Act absent an actual “discharge”.

The EPA’s first attempt to require CAFOs to obtain NPDES permits absent an actual “discharge” was in 2003. Under the 2003 regulations, any CAFO that was found to have the “potential to discharge” was required to obtain a permit, whether or not an actual discharge occurred. Opponents of the 2003 rule successfully thwarted this attempt in Waterkeeper Alliance v. EPA, where the 2nd Circuit invalidated several parts of the rule, including the “potential to discharge” permit requirement. The 2nd Circuit held that the EPA lacked statutory authority to require a NPDES permit when a “discharge” has not occurred. In direct response to Waterkeeper, the EPA promulgated a revised rule in 2008. In the 2008 rule, the EPA again attempted to require CAFO’s to obtain a NPDES permit absent an actual discharge. Under the 2008 rule, a CAFO must obtain a NPDES permit if it is found to “propose to discharge.” The rule calls for an objective assessment by a CAFO owner/operator to determine if the operation is designed, constructed, operated, and maintained such that a discharge will occur.

Following the release of the 2008 regulation, environmental groups sued the EPA and obtained the EPA’s agreement to publish the Implementation Guidance at issue. According to the settlement, the guidance is to assist permitting authorities by “specifying the kinds of operations and factual circumstances that EPA anticipates may trigger the duty to apply for permits as discharging or proposing to discharge.” CAFO owners/operators/permitting authorities are to consider these factors and circumstances when determining if a particular operation “proposes to discharge” and is subject to NPDES permit requirements. The EPA acknowledges in the new guidance that no one factor is determinative as to whether a permit is required. Rather, the factors are to be considered collectively.

The new guidance seeks to supplement the 2008 regulations by calling for an assessment of climatic, hydrologic, and topographic factors in “relevant areas of consideration” for all CAFO’s, regardless of the type of on-site livestock. These areas include the animal confinement, waste storage and handling, mortality management, and land application areas. These areas are considered potential sources of pollution that are related to the design, construction, operation and maintenance of a CAFO. The guidance then identifies livestock-specific factors that should be considered for dairy, beef cattle, swine, and poultry CAFO’s.

Since the guidance is based off of factors and circumstances other than an actual discharge into waters of the U.S., it seems as though the EPA is attempting to create a regulatory presumption that a CAFO which does not satisfy the identified appropriate factors and circumstances will eventually (and unlawfully, unless permitted to do so) discharge into waters of the U.S. Even before its release, some environmentalists believed that the EPA would ground its authority to establish such a presumption on a footnote found in Waterkeeper. In the footnote, the 2nd Circuit appears to hint that the EPA can create a presumption by stating, “we need not consider whether the record here supports the EPA's determination that Large CAFOs may reasonably be presumed to be such potential dischargers... In our view, the EPA has marshaled evidence suggesting that such a prophylactic measure may be necessary to effectively regulate water pollution from Large CAFOs, given that Large CAFOs are important contributors to water pollution and that they have, historically at least, improperly tried to circumvent the permitting process.”

Even if the EPA does have the authority establish a regulatory presumption and to require CAFO’s to obtain NPDES permits absent an actual discharge, the question remains how much weight it should be given. The guidance states that it is not legally enforceable and does not confer any legal rights or impose any legal obligations on any CAFO operation. The EPA suggests that an objective assessment will provide permitting authorities with a common basis for determining if the CAFO is required to obtain a permit. Nevertheless, the EPA asserts in pending litigation in the 5th Circuit (National Pork Producers Council, et al. v. EPA, et al) that it has the authority under Chemical Manufacturers Association v. DOT (D.C. Circuit) to establish appropriate regulatory presumptions and that courts have and will give deference to these presumptions.

When the guidance hits the ground and is put into use by permitting authorities, it will be interesting to see how a combination of factors will lead to a final determination of whether a permit is required. A substantial amount of disagreement is likely when state agencies, which are responsible for issuing NPDES permits in accordance with the CWA, base permit requirements off of an “objective assessment” performed by the CAFO owner/operator — an objective assessment that consists of an almost endless number of factors, some of which are not within the control of the CAFO owner/operator. It is reasonable to surmise that avoiding such an unpredictable and potentially varied basis for determining permit requirements was in the mind of the 5th Circuit when it limited EPA authority to actual discharges in Waterkeeper.

At the end of the day, one has to question the EPA‘s attempt to sidestep Waterkeeper and wonder how the costly new requirements will impact CAFO’s and production agriculture as a whole. Of course protecting water quality is crucial and CAFO’s have traditionally been able to avoid CWA coverage, but at what point does the CAFO regulation not fit within the intent of the CWA and instead call for an effort that addresses both agricultural and environmental interests?

Summer Treats around NYC

We definitely have a sweet tooth, so it's always fun to try new desserts in NYC. We lucked out and found a couple of sweet treats in the most unlikely places (a newly opened gastropub and a very casual bar in Brooklyn) . But of course, to end our dessert tour of the city, we ended up at our favorite guilty-pleasure in New York.

The housemade PB&J cupcake ($4.95) from Gus and Gabriel Gastropub is large and so decadent. The peanut butter is smooth and rich. It works well with the jelly center. The cake itself is light and fluffy - not dense at all!

We came across San Francisco's It's-It mint ice-cream sandwich ($4) at Brooklyn's Pacific Standard bar. This ice cream sandwich made out of 2 oatmeal cookies and ice cream has been a West Coast treat since 1928.

One of our favorite ice cream places is burger-mecca Shake Shack. We love the inventive, and always changing, custards and concretes. We enjoyed the Peach Cobbler Concrete ($6.25) which was peach custard blended with shortbread and caramel, dusted with cinnamon sugar.

Thanks to our fellow blogger at Eat, Live, Travel, Write for publishing this post on her blog. Check it out! Mardi's been traveling (most recently in Australia, and now in Laos) and posting photos from her journeys!

Sunday, July 26, 2015

A Tale of Two Markets: Part II, Newton County, Arkansas


 In my prior post about the farmers markets in Telluride and Mountain Village, Colorado, I promised to compare and contrast those markets with the one in Jasper, Arkansas, my home town.  Both places are similar in some ways, dramatically different in others.  First, both are rural/nonmetropolitan by most ecological measures, e.g., population density and size.  Indeed, both have similar total populations-- San Miguel County just over 7000, and Newton County just over 8000.  Both are also mountain towns (San Juans of the Rockies on one hand, Ozarks on the other), which benefit from ecotourism.  In fact, both are amenity rich in terms of outdoor activities, but Telluride has many more "built" amenities, and is quite cosmopolitan culturally.  This distinction and the crowd each county attracts is reflected in the annual accommodation and food service sales for 2007:  $77 million in San Miguel County, $3.2 million in Newton County.  That and the relative affluence are also reflected in retail sales per capita in 2007:  $13,114 in San Miguel County, $1,596 in Newton County.

The Newton County market is held on the courthouse square.
Tensions between old timers and newcomers are evident in both places.  In Telluride, those tensions often play out in planning battles, but presumably also in other ways.  Newton County does not engage in any planning or regulate building in any way, so these tensions are manifest in other ways.  In fact, my sense is that these conflicts have seemingly dissipated over the years, perhaps because long-time residents have come to see newcomers as a net gain to the community.

Beyond these similarities, the differences between the two places are more apparent.  Telluride is an extraordinary example of rural gentrification and is so obviously affluent, Newton County is a persistent poverty county, which means it is characterized by entrenched, inter-generational poverty.  I provided some socioeconomic data about Telluride and San Miguel County in my last post.  Here's some about Newton County:  Its poverty rate is 22.5%, and it's median household income is $27,441.  Whereas nearly half of San Miguel County residents have a bachelor's degree or greater, only 12.2% of Newton County residents do.  Newton County is a Federal/State Government dependent economy, while San Miguel County has a Service-dependent economy.

How is this very different demographic profile reflected in the two places' farmers markets?  I already provided lots of information about the Telluride and Mountain Village markets, and at least the former is fairly long standing.  The Newton County farmers' market, in contrast, started only this year, with a push from the Newton County Agricultural Extension Office.  (I don't even recall much of a tradition of farm stands in Newton County--just neighbors sharing the fruits of their gardens with others).  Whereas the San Miguel County markets take place weekly, spring through fall, the Newton County market takes place only on one Friday evening a month, from 4 pm to 6 pm (aiming to catch people passing the courthouse square on their way home from work), with the last market of the season likely to be this week (though in future years it might be in August, absent present doubt conditions).  I don't know the cost of participating in the Telluride market, but participation in the Newton County market costs just $5/week, and the Extension Office is considering the option of an annual fee.  I'm not sure what participants get for that -- presumably the benefit of a sign announcing the market, which I saw in a newspaper story about it.


While vendors at the Colorado markets were numerous, only five vendors showed up to participate in the Newton County market on the Friday in early July when my mom showed up to take these photos as my proxy.  She found four fruit and veg vendors and one craftsman.  One of the food vendors had not only fresh produce, but also home-baked goods and jams and relishes for $5 each.  That's less than half the $11/jar cost at Mountain Village.  Tomatoes were $6/lb in Colorado, but only $2.25 in Newton County (and my mom declared them the best she's ever eaten).  The selection wasn't extensive -- certainly none of the kohlrabi featured at the Mountain Village market--but it included some potatoes, peppers, and squash in addition to the items noted above.  I suspect most vendors simply brought excess bounty from their own gardens, and that they did not decide what to plant because of the existence of the market.  I don't believe any of the vendors are engaged in agritourism, but I suspect those selling jams and relishes don't also market those at the nearby gift shops on Scenic Highway 7 (see the figures below).  No one at this market is making a living off the market, which is quite different to what I learned about the Colorado markets.

All of the vendors at the Newton County market were from within the county, population 8,264.  I suppose it is not a sufficiently attractive market in terms of income potential to draw vendors from a wider area.  And I suspect most if not all vendors brought excess bounty from their own gardens, that they had not decided what to plant because of the existence of the market.  I don't believe any of the vendors are engaged in agritourism, but I'd be surprised if those selling jams and relishes don't also market those at the nearby gift shops on Scenic Highway 7.  Unlike in Telluride, none of the vendors had signs or brochures indicating their names or that of their farm; certainly, these Newton County farmers had not invested as much as the Telluride vendors in display aesthetics.

I recently came across U.S. Government data on some of the very questions I was addressing.  Here's the county-to-county comparison on a range of agricultural data points, from the Atlas of Rural and Small-Town America:
  • Principal Operator 10 years or more on same parcel:  San Miguel County, 87; Newton County,  439
  • Principal Operator 2 years or less on same parcel:  San Miguel County, 1; Newton County, 35. 
  • Number of farms:  San Miguel County, 123; Newton County, 636.
  • Percentage of land being farmed:  San Miguel County, 18.3%; Newton County, 21.5%.
  • Average market value of product sold:  San Miguel County, $27,235; Newton County $29,907.
  • Percentage of farms with sales below $10K in 2007:  San Miguel County, 71%; Newton County,  68%.     
  • Average government payment 2007:  San Miguel County, $9230; Newton County, $1756.
  •  Percentage of farms with income from agritourism:    San Miguel County, 4.87%; Newton County, 0.47%.  
  • Percentage of farms engaged in value-added production: San Miguel County, 8.9%; Newton County, 5.3%.
  • Percentage of farms using CSA:  San Miguel County, 1.62%; Newton County, 0.
  • Percentage of farms with high speed internet:  San Miguel County, 48%; Newton County, 24%.
  • Percentage of operators working off farm:  San Miguel County, 38%; Newton County, 46%. 
  • Percentage of farms with woman operator:  San Miguel County, 18%; Newton County, 14%. 
I acknowledge that this county-to-county comparison is a bit misleading about the markets because, as acknowledged in my earlier post, food at the Telluride area markets actually comes from many neighboring counties, not only from San Miguel County.  Nevertheless, I find it an interesting comparison. 
Note the small market, and the wooden chairs for sale by one vendor. 
Cross-posted to Legal Ruralism